Many travellers come to Saint-Malo because of a novel. Few realise they are walking through one of the most heavily fortified, most fought-over towns of the Second World War in France. Here is the real story behind the walls, from the Atlantic Wall fortress to the 39-45 Memorial.
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I went to the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel for a quiet night alone in my campervan, just to breathe and meditate. The next morning, the sky gave me something I will never forget.
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Inside the rare Breton butter made from the milk of the Froment du Léon, a cattle breed that almost vanished. Why food lovers travel to Brittany to taste Beurre de Madame.
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A hidden gem in Normandy, hiding in plain sight between the D-Day beaches and Bayeux. Thirteenth-century stone vaults, a sole meunière worthy of Julia Child, and eight hundred years of history. Worth every mile of the drive.
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A few hundred metres from one of the most visited monuments in France, an old polder sheepfold has become a warm, terroir-driven restaurant. Stone walls, Norman produce, an experienced new chef, and the kind of welcome you remember.
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Private First Class Abel Marques Jr was 21 when he fell near Coutances on July 30, 1944. I went to say hello to him at the Brittany American Cemetery, because as a local guide, helping families preserve the memory of their fallen ancestors is part of who I am.
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